From the latest DNR News:
There’s little room for playfulness at Orthodox. Thus the name. Even subtle details in the fall collection that could be spun as entertaining frivolity—the quilted stitch-pattern kangaroo pouch of a nylon jacket, for example, or two fasteners surrounding the shawl collar of a chunky cableknit sweater that allow for a tighter, more intimate fit—were utterly integral components of the garments.
Designer Eric Niccoli, whose own masterfully unkempt appearance is as potent a marketing tool for Orthodox as a 12-story billboard on Sunset Boulevard, showed his strongest collection to date, save for a few trappings that could’ve been easily excised (an ordinary hoodie with a branded “O” crest on the left breast, for example). The color palette for both the men’s and the inaugural women’s line huddled around black, flecked gray, royal purple and a deep oxblood. After showing sharp, notch-lapel suits for spring, Niccoli opted for an unstructured silhouette straight out of the Tomas Maier playbook, most notably for a one-button, wool/viscose blazer with a slim shawl collar.
This much is clear: Slouchy cardigans, no-nonsense lambskin jackets and other knockout pieces shown aren’t to be worn by young establishment lemmings, but rather by effortlessly hip gents, perpetually bound for the sort of downtown party to which you’ll never be invited. Unless, perhaps, you’re Vogue’s André Leon Talley, who attended Orthodox and a smattering of other shows behind tortoiseshell Sean John shades.
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